Beginners Guide To Wedding Photography

You bought your first DSLR camera and you’re ready to roll at your best friend’s wedding! The first thing you need to do is to make sure you, and your friend, understand what you are getting into. Not only that, but make sure expectations are very low. That way, if something goes wrong there will not be hurt feelings. Here are a few photography tips to help you get started with wedding photography:

Under Promise, Over Deliver

Make it a habit to always under promise and try to over deliver. If your photos do not turn out as good as they could have, you will still hopefully have a friend. If they are expecting snapshot images they won't be disappointed with the results but they will be grateful and impressed with any photos above the average level.

Create A ‘Shot List’

 

One of the most important things in wedding photography is to have the couple decide upon a list of photos that they’d want you to capture on the big day and make a list so that you can check them off. This is especially good in the family shots, where the couple wants to photograph with everybody and not be disappointed that you didn’t photograph them with grandma!

 

Practice With Lighting And Exposures

 

It may be really frustrating making excuses for terrible exposure in your wedding shots. It doesn’t sound right to just say that the church was too dark or blame it on the flash. The best thing to do before the wedding is to scout the location, take a lot of test shots and experiment with different angles, lights and exposures. Then write down your notes, so you know exactly which settings to use on the wedding day.

Equipment

 

There is no such thing as the best camera, really. Pick one that you are totally comfortable with. It’s pointless to get the latest model and be intimidated by all the new stuff you need to learn. Choose one that you feel competent with and know all its settings and features and most importantly, know when and how to use them. Basically, any DSLR camera will do a good job on a wedding, if combined with a high quality fast lens.

 

Here is a breakdown of the main equipment you’ll need in wedding photography:

 

Lenses – A great asset for any wedding photographer, be it professional or amateur, is a lens with a large maximum aperture of f/2.8 or larger. You will need it to capture all the available ambient light, even in dark churches or dimly lit rooms. Another important thing is the option to shoot without a flash, as very few people would actually consider the flash burst as being romantic. Your prime lens kit should include a wide-angle zoom, a wide-to-telephoto zoom and an image-stabilized telephoto zoom.

 

Flashes and accessories – If there is not enough ambient light, you might find yourself with a bunch of underexposed images. A flash solves the problem and is a must-have tool for evenings as well as indoor shots where the lighting is just not enough. Also, make sure to include a diffuser to avoid harsh shadows and instead give your photos a soft and warm look.

 

Tripod – Invest in a stable tripod, as the last thing you want during the wedding is to make sure your tripod does not topple over. Also, a tripod is a must have for group shots, especially if your lens come without image stabilization.

Memory cards – This is one of the most important items to include in your equipment. Choose Secure Digital and Compact Flash cards that are high quality and have a good speed, which allow you to store the images at outstanding quality and never get lost. Stay away from cheap cards that may ruin your entire work and performance. Next, you’ll need battery packs and a bag to hold it all.

Change perspectives  

 

Changing your perspectives and shooting at different angles allows you to get out of the comfort zone and showcase your creativity. While most images in the album will probably be pretty normal poses, it’s always fun to mix things up a little by shooting from down low, up high, at wide angles etc.

Continuous Shooting Mode

 

Being able to take a lot of pictures fast is extremely helpful during a wedding. Switch your camera to Continuous shooting mode and use it. Often times it’s the picture you take a second after the posed one – when everyone is relaxing – that really captures the moment!

Have Fun!

Weddings are about celebrating so they should be fun. The more fun you have as the photographer the more relaxed those you are photographing will be.

 

Looking to get a more serious level of wedding photography education?  Then check out <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-unhide:no; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:EN-CA; mso-fareast-language:EN-CA;} .MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; mso-default-props:yes; font-size:10.0pt; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt;} @page WordSection1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt; mso-header-margin:36.0pt; mso-footer-margin:36.0pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} --> Digital Wedding Secrets and get their Wedding Photography 101 book for FREE!

 

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iPhone Photography - The Cat's Meow?

I have an iPhone and I love it!  (I also have a BlackBerry Torch for work - not quite as good).  And I find myself using it's handy camera more and more (as I don't always have my DSLR with me).  I thought I would hate a camera phone, mainly because I was a quasi-camera snob.  (Well, I still may be, but I'm getting better).  But as each generation of phone gets better in features and functions, the camera is also getting more usable.

The first photo I took with the iPhone 4 was of my financee's cat; her name is Lily - the cat that is (I started a cat name blog because of her).  It was just for fun and to show her (now my wife) how the camera worked on the phone.  And there the addictaion began.

The camera on the phone is more of a tool for me that a creative outlet (although some use it for art these days).  I have it with me everywhere, and when I need to remeber something on a sign or want to record an interesting moment of scene, then bam!  It's there.

Sadly, the most photographed muse on my iPhone is Lily, our lovely cat.

I took the photography above with an iPhone 4 and I think that this is an example of the best quality shot that comes from an iPhone.  The photo is not grainy, the colours came our correct, and the brightness and balance is great.  However, not every shot is so good on them.

This photo, as cute as Lily is with her kitty paws sticking out, is slightly more grainy and the colours are not as good.  And this is with just slightly less light.

This last phote of our Lily cat going for a treat is much more graining and the colours are really off.   Note, it is near dusk and with incandescent light on.

This small sample shows some range of the iPhone 4 camera.  While not amazing, I find it works very well in bright light (for a camera phone).  I wouldn't thrown our your P&S or DSLR for using this as your main camera, but for something easy to carry around and use, iPhone 4 cameras (and by extension, other camera phones) and a useful tool to have in your bag of gear.

 

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Night Photography Tips: Taking Photos of People and Monuments

Learning night photography tips can be far more exciting than practicing in the clear sunlight. The mood of the world changes at night, there are additional light sources everywhere – and opportunities to capture images of people and monuments wherever you may be.

Night time is not as dark, black and boring as you think! When everyone else goes home, the night photographers come out to work their magic. You’ll need to remember some fundamental photography techniques when taking photos at night – but if you do it properly, you can truly create some masterful images. The next time you’re away on holiday somewhere, remember these great night photography tips.

A haunting photo of the Colosseum by photographer David Wilmot

Preparing For Your Night Shoot

A lot of night photography is about spontaneity, but first you have to come prepared to be spontaneous! Always bring along a tripod, so that you can take the sharpest images possible and eliminate any kind of vibration that would interfere with the clarity of your image. Because you’ll be photographing moving people, and still buildings or monuments (bridges, statues etc) you need to prepare for both.

Your light sources are going to come from the things around you, not from the sun. Always be aware of all ambient light in each image you frame. Professional photographers will tell you one of the best night photography tips they ever received was to – know their equipment. You’ll be out at night shooting, and no one has time to try and figure out a particular setting before they do. Learn all you can about your DSLR camera before you go.

The Finer Points of Night Photography

The first thing you need to know about shooting at night is that you need longer exposure times, with average ISO settings of between 100 and 400. There is the constant danger of camera shake, which happens when you press the capture button – and the only real way to solve that problem is with a remote or cable release. Because your shutter will be open for longer, the risk of motion blur from ambient light is extremely high.

When you find a scene you enjoy, and have chosen the right angle and frame – you’ll need to set up for a timed exposure. This works best on monuments because they don’t move. People tend to make slow shutter speeds difficult, and you’re bound to come up with some blurred images in the end. Shooting through live view, and not your view finder – will make the process easier.

Keep in mind that if there is almost no light (or no real light sources) in your image, your ISO settings will have to increase, so that you can get proper exposure out of your photo. For well lit areas, however – this just isn’t necessary. Let’s get into the intricacies of photographing people and monuments at night.

People and Night Photography

Here are some night photography tips that matter! Always shoot in RAW mode when capturing images of people at night. Check to see if your DSLR camera has a ‘night mode’ - it usually activates the flash when framing portraits in the evening. Without the flash your subjects might come out very dark, depending on the light sources in the area. Beware of underexposure! It’s a night photography tip you can count on happening.

Great use of depth of field by photographer Tommy Ga-Ken Wan

Your goal is to ensure that your subject is well lit, but that you also capture any ambient light in the background. You’ll constantly be readjusting your settings to try and match this evening light, with the artificial daylight that allows your subject to be seen. Though you’re shooting people, you should always be aware of your background. If it’s too busy, just use depth of field and blur it out to enhance your subject.

Use your landscape to add light to an image if there isn’t enough, or if you’re looking for a more dramatic element in your photo. Water at night casts beautiful reflections of light from cityscapes – and they can make for breathtaking portrait backgrounds. Night photography tips like these will help you recognize photo opportunities as you move through the city, or area that you’re shooting in.

Monuments and Night Photography

Unlike people, monuments give you all the time you need to position, compose and frame your shot. Keep your flash off, and depending on your exposure time – make the necessary adjustments to your ISO, and aperture settings. A monument photo with a 15 second exposure time for example, needs a narrow aperture for greater depth of field. Shoot in RAW mode to get the most out of color and light in your images.

Carefully assess your position, and take a variety of shots from different perspectives and locations. Use symmetry, or other buildings to frame your image, but remember to pick a foreground image for depth and focus. If your sole goal is to shoot a single monument and it’s huge – go for simplicity, focus and clarity. There are very few creative shots of bridges, but there are also few perfect shots of them.

Night Photography Round Up

At the end of the day, after you’re armed with your settings – it’s just you and an unlimited source of subjects, perspectives and creative opportunities. What makes night photography so challenging, is learning to identify prime subjects and interesting spots - and then shooting them before they change. Take this to heart, and you’ll become a well-rounded photographer.

You’ll have far more failed photos than good ones, but don’t be discouraged – that’s just the process that needs to happen. It all becomes worth it when several of your batch turn out to be exquisite. Keep learning more night photography tips and expand your knowledge on the subject. It will only help you improve your skills! 

Also, check out this night photography video on YouTube for more knowledge!

Tips to Create Amazing Water Drop Photographs

Tips to Create Amazing Water Drop Photographs

Ever see those amazing shots of water splashing up, frozen in mid air with awesome colours and shapes?  Well, now you can create your own series with these water drop photography special effects.  They are fairly easy to follow and simple enough to setup.  Read on and learn how do them as well.

Required Equipment (as least how I did it)

As with almost anything in photography, you will need to ensure you have the correct gear to do this.  While there are probably a few (if not several) different ways to do the same trick, I am showing you one way.  It will hopefully give you enough ideas try different approaches.

* DLSR camera – you want a camera that has manual settings; the ability to use a remote trigger is key for how I do these shots.  I used my Canon 40D
* A long lens – I used a lens with a 200mm focal length (Canon 70-300 L F4), but use the longest one you have.  You will also want a lens with manual focus capability.
* Extension tubes – only if your lens is not a macro lens, you should consider buying some extension tubes.  They are circular tubes (with no glass) that is placed between your camera and lens.  This allows the lens to focus closer and on smaller objects.
* Tripod – a stable tripod is essential capturing extreme close up shots.   Use what you have, but a heavy, sturdy one will be more stable
* Off Camera Flash – proper lighting is important in all photography, and this is especially true for water photography.
* Flash cord/trigger – Besides an off camera flash, you want to be able use it remotely (unless you have a very, very bright location, but flash works better).  With many Nikon cameras they have built in ability to remotely trigger some of their flashes.  With Canon cameras, you have to buy a Canon trigger (or a trigger from another manufacturer – I bought an inexpensive Chinese made one for under $100 on eBay and it works well with by Canon EX580 II flash).  You can also use a flash cord that does the same thing and is much cheaper.  Make sure you have a long enough one and that the connectors are the correct fit for your camera.
* Remote trigger (optional) – I prefer to use a remote trigger to fire the camera and flash.  The reason is that I can control the exact moment for the shot without having any camera shake.  You can use the timer function as well, but this will be more difficult.

For those eager to leave more photography special effects, click here to learn from a master.

Items you will need for the setup are:

* A wide bowl/pan – to hold the water that we will be focusing on and creating drops in.
* White Bristol board/poster board – I use this behind the water bowl (opposite side of the camera) to bounce the flash off of so we create a nice diffused indirect light.
* Plastic cup – why a plastic cup you ask?  Simple.  I use this to create the water drops.  More to come on that.
* Pin – to create a hole in the plastic cup
* Paper towels – you will make a mess (of water)

The Setup

The basic setup is simple to follow.  This should note take you long before you start taking great photographs of water drops.

* Place the bowl on a table, fill with water (perhaps put a paper towel underneath if you want to protect from splashing)
* Set the camera on the tripod beside the table and compose the shot to be the center of the bowl.  I recommend you play with the angle of the camera to the water.  I found the most success with the camera above the bowl (by about 18 inches) and aim down at your focal point.
* Manually focus the lens.  You want auto focus off as you down what the delay of the camera and lens trying to refocus each time you take a shot.
* Prop the white board on the table behind the bowl (opposite side of the camera).  Place it about 6-12 inches back.
* Place the flash (off the camera) to the back right or back left of the bowl, and aim it at the center of the white cardboard.  When the flash bounces of the cardboard, you will get the nice diffused light hitting the scene.

How to Execute the Shot

Once you have all the items in place above, here is what you want to do.

* Poke a small hole in the bottom of the plastic cup
* Pour some water in and hold it above the center of the bowl
* Ensure you get some water drops coming out and dripping into the bowl.  If no drops come out, you may need to widen the hole a bit.
* Once you have drops coming out (hopefully a slow, rhythmic cycle), you are ready to take some photos.
* Each time a drop comes out and is about to hit the water, press the remote shutter release.  You will need to play with timing of when you press the shutter release to get a great shot.

Some Final Photography Tips for Water Drops

As with any technique, there is room for you to play and experiment to try something new and exciting to get fantastic results.

Shutter Speed – play with how fast the shutter goes to see if you can get a different effect when capturing the motion
Poster Board Colour and Flash Gels – alter these to create a different colour effect on the water.
Vary the Bowl – different bowls (glass, metal, wood, colour and size, etc) will have a different effect on the photo.  Experiment and see what happens!
Image Under a Glass Pan – some people have been known to use a flat, glass pan and will put a photo underneath to try and get the image in the water.  Also, you can have a photo on the poster board and try to have image reflect in the drop.

Learning about photography is never ending.  You can learn more creative photography tips by the book written by the master, Evan Sharboneau, by clicking here.

To learn other tips, try www.great-photography-tips.com.