Tips to take A Sharp Photograph

Sharp as a Razor!

We all want to take photographs that have a clean, razor sharp quality to it. But often times we get something that falls a tad short of that (i.e. a blurry mess that like the internal organs of a cricket). Here are a few tips that can be used to improve the sharpness of any photograph.

1. Tripod - this is the simplest way to improve the quality of a photography for anyone. Using a tripod will reduce any camera shake that handholding will create. Cheap ones can be purchased for $15-20, and the high end ones can be $200-300-400 and more. I do recommend a mid end tripod with with a bit more weight to it to improve stability.
2. Cable Release or Self-Timer - each time the shutter button is pressed, the camera will have a very slight movement (even on a tripod). Using a cable release/wireless remote for the camera will enure no movement at all happens. If you don't have one, many cameras have a self-timer feature. That will allow you to press the shutter button and your camera will have a few seconds to stabilize. And voila - a sharper image!
   
3. Image Stabilization Off - what? Am I insane? Perhaps, but that's another matter. When your camera has IS on (or VR, SR, or whatever your brand calls it), it looks for movement and compensates for it. However, since you have your camera on a tripod and the mirror locked (above), there is no movement. However, your camera doesn't know that. It assumes there will be movement, and thus creates movement to adjust for nothing. Turning off this feature will make for sharper photographs when using a tripod.
4. Low ISO - many digial cameras have the ability to select the ISO from typcially 100 (sometimes 50) to 1600 or even much higher. Since ISO is the sensor's sensitivity to light, a higher ISO is used in lower light conditions to shoot without a flash. However, higher ISO will also cause more noise in a photograph. To get a very sharp image, the lowest possible ISO needs to be used.

Using these tips will lead to sharper photographs that are sure to please all. However, if you need to hand hold the camera, I recommend you use a "burst" or sports more to take several photos in succession. You increase your chances of having a photograph that is very clear.

Finally, always review your photograph after taking it and zoom in to see the details. If you find the image is not as sharp as you like, you will still be able to take another photograph. If you check when you get home, it will be too late and the picture will be gone!

What is HDR?

HDR

I've had a few friends ask me about HDR and what it is. So I thought I would write a short blog on it to help out. Short, only because I only know how to do it (sort of), but know very little about the technical side.

HDR stands for High Dynamic Range. In a nutshell, HDR deals with the range of brightness in a scene. Typically, film or digital sensors have a limited range of dark and light that it can record. However, if we had access to more of the range in the scene, we could adjust the contrast, brightness, etc to enhance the scene to more like we saw it, or even past that. Perhaps into a surreal state taht could not possibly exist.

There are various programs that will perform HDR processing. Photoshop CS2 has the capability if you are using JPG files. However, this will then require at least three (or more, in odd internvals) of pictures of the same scene, but with different exposure values in each one. For example, if you have a scene you want to HDR process, take it at +0 EV, -1 EV, and +1 EV. Several DSLR cameras will do this for you with their Exposure Bracketing feature. The camera will either take the three shots automatically for you with one press of the button, or will require you to press the shutter release three times. I generally don't use Photoshop for HDR processing. Nor do I shoot in JPG format. If you to, remember to use a TRIPOD for your shots, and a remote shutter release if you can (to avoid any camera shake).

The other format you can shot in, which is better for HDR, is Camera RAW. Many DSLRs have this feature. Essentially, the RAW format is a data file of all the information that your camera sensor took in, but with none of the processing that your camera does after the shot is taken (i.e no white balance, colour correction, etc). It also contains more data in the file than can be seen. This allows the photographer to do a single file rather than 3 or more. However, three of more is recommened for best results.

The program I use is Photomatix. It is pretty cheap (about $99 US) and works really well with camera RAW format. Rather than going through how to use it, I will post the link of the site that has the tutorial I found that teaches you how to use it.

For examples of HDR pictures, just check out many of my posts on this site.

Cheers!

Links:

• Photomatix - http://www.hdrsoft.com/
• Photomatix tutorial - http://stuckincustoms.com/2006/06/06/548/
• Photoshop CS2 HDR tutorial - http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/hdr.shtml

Photograph: Snowbirds

Photography at the Canadian Air Show

Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Year: 2008
Camera: Canon 40D, 70-200mm L f/4 lens
Settings: ISO 100, f/5, 1/250 second, 200mm
Support: Manfrotto monopod
Filters: circular polarizing

Details: I took many photos this summer when I went to see the Canadian Air Show this summer with my girlfriend. It was a good reason to use my 70-200mm L lens and a great way to enjoy a sunny day (except for the sunburn - ouch!). This is my favourite photo from that day. Some key things to note here are as follows.

• Bring a zoom lens with you to an air show as you know your subject is far away. You will want to get in nice and close for a great photograph.
• Monopod or tripods are a good idea. When zoomed in so much, every bit of movement in your body is magnified. I choose a monopod to help stabilize as my subject was moving. Had it been a stationary subject I would have chosen a tripod for even better stability and thus a clearer photography.
• Circular polarizing filters can help create a lot more contrast in a photograph, especially against nice, blue skies. However, note the rules of the polarizing filter - it only works if the sun is to your left, right, or directly overhead. It won't work when the sun is behind or ahead of you.
  

Processing: HDR processing was used to bring the colours out a bit more. Also, some cropping was need to get the exact composition I wanted in my photography.

Photo: Classic Car

Sunset on the Porsche

Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Year: 2008
Camera: Canon 40D, 17-85mm f/4-5.6 lens
Settings: ISO 100, f/6.3, 1/30 second, 56mm
Support: hand held

Details: this shot was taken while I was in Grand Bend on a golf trip with some coworkers. We were just walking towards a restaurant for dinner and I noticed an awesome, classic Porsche on the street with the setting sun hitting the car. This was an opportunity that I didn't want to pass on, so I took a few quick snaps of the car. In this shot I angled myself so I can get the sun beaming through the windshield, some shadow casting of the car, and some awesome reflection from the clean metal.

My best advice to give is always take the shot when you see it. I will guarantee if you decide to come back later, you car will be gone, the sun will be down, of whatever you wanted to photography is not the same. Great moments happen, and each one is unique and temporary. Take the shot when you can.

Processing: HDR processing with Photomatix to bring out the colours more. The original shot did not have as vibrant a range of the sunset, the car dials, or the reflection from the metal.